“Macbeth” 2019
On this production of Macbeth, I was responsible for Cutting Lady Macbeth’s dress and Malcom’s vest with added shirt. For this position I was responsible for the making of the patterns, the cutting of fabrics, making a construction plots, supervising construction, fitting the actor, and watch the rehearsal for issues.
Planning of Work:
At first, I created a list of questions to find out the elements of the costume I need to make. From this I created a list of items and thought about how long it would approximately take for the different steps on an element. Through this I thought of the steps I would need to take to the product, thinking of techniques to create the best product. I consulted the text books, my prior knowledge, and Charlotte’s thoughts. This included the conversations about Lady Macbeth’s binding. We talked about many ways of doing it but ended up doing a basic hand sewn bias binding.
Analysing:
For Lady Macbeth, I assessed her has having a bodice, belt, over skirt, and under skirt. I concluded I needed 1m of twill for bodice base and 4m of devore for the bodice and sleeves. About 0.4m for the belt top fabric and 0.5m of canvas base. Then 3m for the overskirt not including the CF panel, with was 1.5m. 3m of skirt lining, with 2m of twill and 3m of factory cotton for structure. Later, we made the calculations for the underskirt consisting of 2m of lining base, 3m of silk chiffon, 4m of ombre chiffon, 3m of black tulle, 2m red tulle, and 6m of black organza. All these are just estimates of yardage, we added most of these fabrics as the garment progressed due to fittings and designer changes. I used the actor’s measurements and practical measurements to have an idea of the meterage.
For Malcom, I was responsible for her vest with attached sleeves. For the vest was 1.5m but ended up needing more due to plaid matching, ended up using 2.5m of plaid. Then 1m of lining with 1m of factory cotton and some interfacings. I also used about 1.75m of rayon for the sleeves. I used the actor’s measurements and practical measurements for the estimation of the meterage.
Specific Costuming Skills Required:
The skills to complete these costumes are the basic costuming construction and drafting techniques, mixed with some couture techniques. Using books, prior knowledge, and talking out issues with classmates and teachers.
Planning for and Mentoring Team Members:
While creating my construction plots, I thought about the which steps would be appropriate for first year students to work on and learn from. For telling the first year’s students the steps, I wrote the steps down on a tag or piece of paper for them to keep on track. Other than writing down the steps I told them the steps with words and visuals using the garment and paper if needed. If the students don’t know the techniques, I am talking about I direct them to the textbooks and/or explain the techniques as clearly as I can. I am still working on teaching and mentoring, I am not the greatest at explaining and I would like to get better at it.
Research:
Used our text books, like the pattern making and construction detail ones as well as the Jean Hunnisett book, 1800 to 1900. We first thought the basic Edwardian skirt shape would work, but we later decided to create a mermaid shaped skirt. For the materials, I consulted with Charlotte, the Designer, and classmates for ideas for structural ideas.
Functioning of The Costume Department:
As a cutter, I work through the chain of command when I came to questions and requests. I talk to the coordinator about shopping lists and questions about the show. I also talk to accessories about wand holder attachments and other items. Then to the Designer with questions about the costume and its outer workings.
Reflect of This Past Term:
This past term was an amazing experience working as a cutter. I really enjoyed it, even through it was stressful working on two characters and balancing the big project of Lady Macbeth. But through this experience I learned so much about cutting, fitting, and sewing. How to solve problems, like the hem of Lady Macbeth’s dress and Malcom’s wand holder placement. Mentoring the first-year students was difficult for me due to my lack of experience in teaching but hope to learn more about this. But I couldn’t have done any of done any of it with out Charlotte mentoring me and teaching me so much.