Category: 141 R

Survey 7:

Typography/1905-1915

The most popular typeface released in 1905 was French Script, designed by Monotype Staff, then in 1915 it was Goudy, designed by Frederic W. Goudy. Art nouveau was in full swing and the typography was often integrated into posters of the time. Many copycats had tired the genre by this point; the repetition and imitation had worn Art Nouveau down. The lively colours became darker and muted.

Fischinger, August
Hofbauer Klavier- Fabrik, 1910 ca.

The strong red and the elegantly stretched hands make this design stand out among its peers of the day. The suspenseful composition struck me especially.

Artists such as Mucha and Cheret had abandoned poster design for painting and had cleared the way for the young Leonetto Cappiello (said to have been the father of modern advertising). He rejected the fussy feminine style of the previous movement and his work was often bizarre and humorous.

Cappiello, Leonetto
Biscotines Union, 1906 ca.
Lucien Bernhard,
The Sachplakat Poster, 1906

The Poster Style started by Bernhard further emphasized flat colours and abstracted visual language to achieve clean communicative designs. Though this style was to be quickly changed for the war effort in 1914. Posters became tools of propaganda.

Aghion, Janine
Share Jewish Relief Campaign , 1915

The combination of dark flat colours and the strong female figure tie together both Art Nouveau and the emerging Poster Style. The Art Nouveau resonated with me more than Early Modernism did due to the natural curves and the softness of the illustrations. The type feels more integrated and a part of the composition and even today, a female face in front of a magazine title is almost completely standard.

https://www.internationalposter.com/a-brief-history-of-the-poster/

http://www.designhistory.org/Poster_pages/IllPosters.html

http://www.identifont.com/index.html

Survey 6: tools & technology

I am the designer for this week and I’m doing tools & technology. I’m doing an infographic on the early industrial revolution.

Survey 5

Once trade between Japan and Europe became commonplace, Japanese aesthetics and objects came into fashion. Many artists began to imitate the flat colours and simplified depth in their work, artists such as: Van Gogh, Kilmt, Manet, etc.

Lady with a Fan, Kilmt

The Japonism Movement began in 1854 and ended 1920, not to say that it’s influence ended, rather, the changes melded permanently into future works. Even today, the modern term ‘weaboo’ relates to those obsessed with contemporary Japanese culture and work. Ukiyo-e prints were done on wooden blocks and the term ‘Ukiyo-e’ means floating world, also known as the red light district. These paintings often depicted unusual perspectives and unseen settings. The bright patterns and intense colours leaked into European art and these flat compositions became essential to modernist painting. Katsushika Hokusai, artist behind many famous Ukiyo-e prints, most notably: The Great Wave off Kanagawa, has been considered the Father of modern western art. His asymmetrical compositions were a turning point in western art and his influence is unending.

Fuji Seen from Kanaya on the Tōkaidō, Katsushika Hokusai
Blood of Fish, Klimt

The reason I’ve chosen to include multiple Klimt pieces is my personal admiration of his work. The beautiful versatility of his paintings and prints are stunning. For example, Blood of Fish exemplifies Klimt’s transition from a realist style to the impressionist art nouveau works that he is famous for and really convey the Japanese influence in his work.

https://www.theartstory.org/movement/japonism/artworks/

http://www.gustavklimt.net/blood-of-fish/

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/55236

Survey 4

The Victorian fashion era began and ended with Queen Victoria in 1837 – 1901. The clothing displayed class, wealth, and beauty. The era had many phases and skirts and accessories evolved quickly. Signature accessories such as the parasol and fan are iconic to the period.

Victorian fashion 1886 jewelry and handfans

White wedding dresses were not the norm until Queen Victoria in 1840. White symbolized innocence and status and was quickly adopted as the standard. Pure white clothing was near impossible to come by as washing machines weren’t standard, they represented high class. Her veil was 12ft long and was buried with her. Her train required 12 bridesmaids to carry it as it was 18ft long.

The Victorian era introduced the notion of a woman’s place being in the home. Victorian fashion had no utilitarian purpose, rather it was an expression of status. Once the exaggerated shoulders fell out of fashion, a corset was warn to achieve a similar effect. The ‘hourglass figure’ arrived in the 19th century and never quite left. Victorian corsets differed from earlier renditions as the hips flared out beyond the waist rather than ending at the hips. Spiralled steel kept the shape of the corset and curved with the figure.

1885 Fashion plate

The bustle was introduced in the late 1860s and added mobility to fashion. Since the back was fuller, it allowed more mobility in the front and sides. The Victorian fashion movement has impacted modern day drag and art today. It’s likeness it featured in many historical pieces and films as the distinctness of the clothing immediately sets the tone.

1884-86. Dinner Dress. American. Silk. metmuseum

As time went on, skirts were made shorter as women became more involved in activities outside of the home. The 1860s brought crinolines into fashion.

http://fiveminutehistory.com/fashions-of-the-late-victorian-era/
https://vintagedancer.com/victorian/victorian-fashion-hisory/

Survey 3

The early sixteenth century showed little change in fashion from the late fifteenth century. In women’s clothing, a smock/chemise made up the foundation of a woman’s dress. These were easy to wash and were often adorned with embroidery near exposed parts such as the wrist or neck. A petticoat (kirtle) was then joined to the bodice or skirt. It was often made of more decorated fabric as it was the most visible. Sleeves had large openings at the wrist and cuffs were often folded back to contrast with the fur lining. Girdles/belts were very common and, with garters, these held up stockings.

Last Judgement Triptych of Zierikzee, Master of Afflighem

Square necklines were very in fashion as well as extravagant trains and big skirts. In the figure above, you can see the fur lining inside the sleeves as mentioned above.

Portrait of Jane Seymour, Hans Holbein

Under Henry VIII (1485-1509), women wore low waisted gowns, square necklines, and long tight sleeves. Of Henry’s six wives, different trends influenced english nobility. Jane Seymours scalloped sleeves are seen in many other noble portraits of the time. each queen wears a different headpiece in their portraits.

Katherine Parr, by Unknown artist, late 16th century - NPG 4618 - © National Portrait Gallery, London
Katherine Parr, Unknown female artist

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1500-1509/

https://www.theartstory.org/movement/high-renaissance/artworks/

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/16th-century/

Survey 2

The middle ages developed new systems of warfare in pitched and sieged. New weapon technology such as cross-bows and plate armour replaced more archaic technology like chain mail.

Plate amour consisted of many different parts. These pieces were often connected with leather straps. Underneath, chainmail was worn as a kind of padding. Chain mail was near impossible to slice through and protected and un-armoured areas such as joins or the neck. This also made heavy plate armour more comfortable as it stopped pinching.

The components of knight armor. (Alþykkr / Public Domain )

Medieval architects did not encase iron ties in lead like the Greeks and Romans did. Medical warfare is best known for its collection of weapons and armour and many of these relics have survived today. Many handheld fantasy weapons are drawn from the period of time such as the:

  • Battle axe
  • Long sword
  • Dagger
  • Crossbow
  • Lance
  • Mace
A sword found in a Denmark sewer earlier this year

Larger more complicated technology, also born from war, appeared in the era such as the:

  • Catapult
  • Ballista
  • Trebuchet

This sudden advancement in technology is often compared to the arms race of WWI as humanity’s desire to kill each other is the leading factor in technological advancement. The 14th century was the beginning of guns in naval warfare and the build of battleships was quickly revamped to accommodate for the heavy machinery. Gunpowder warfare became increasingly common in the late 14th century and indispensable in the 15th century.

Martial d’Auvergne, A 1490s illustration of the Siege of Orleans of 1429

https://www.ancient.eu/article/1230/siege-warfare-in-medieval-europe/

http://www.medievalwarfare.info

http://www.medievalwarfare.info/weapons.htm#crossbows